Outback Highway

We headed out going south, and took a shortcut through a dirt scenic road. This is called the Moralana Road, and it skirts the Red Range. An unexpected highlight. Truly beautiful. We even did the air out of the tyres trick. Seemed OK.

Once on the main Highway the country was essentially saltbush flats, with the occasional creek bed, but with the Flinders our companions on our right, but now with the old Ghan line beside us as well. It was still overcast, but we thought we could see some clarity off in the far distance.

We thought we would have morning tea at Parachilna, but it was closed. I mean that quite literally. Only one place in town and it was closed. So on we drove to Leigh Creek. This is a 'model town' built in the seventies when the old town was taken over by the coal mine. A really pretty, though very quiet place.

The good thing was that the clouds were breaking up and the weather was warming. It looked like our wet hiking boots in the back might dry after all!

We had a cuppa and a doughnut served by one of those people who make you wonder why they do not have qualifications for the service industry. Stocked up at the supermarket and headed off again. From this point we needed to keep our an eye for the lizards on the road. Marjan does not want to end up killing one, so we may end up flipped in a creek somewhere.

We finally had a more interesting break at the old abandoned town of Farina. Apparently this was a service town for a while on the old Ghan railway, and they kept trying to get water out of bores and wells in the Farina creek, but to no real avail and it slowly faded away. There is a now a preservation society trying to bring it back. Really interesting place, and a great campground, we found a shady spot under some gums and lunched to the sound and sight of a wonderful array of birds. A short walk through the bush to aid digestion made for a lovely interlude.

Nothing much between Farina and Marree, so off we got to Marree pretty early. We bought some Internet time and sat in the Roadhouse, updating the blog and checking road conditions. We had pretty much decided to go ahead to the next stop.

We went into the Lake Eyre Yacht Club to look at the info display and spent an hour chatting to the guy who runs it. Can you believe he is from Belgrave Heights and comes up three or four times a year or when there is water in the lake, He was a wealth of information on what to do and see on the track. I think he made Marjan more comfortable about the road. She is a bit nervous and the sign at the start of the track did not help.

Anyway after that we had a bit of a look at the Marree Cementary. Like the town divided into white, aboriginal and Afghan sections. The outback cameleers are a key part of the history of this part of the world.

Ate a counter meal at the Marree Hotel and had a yarn to James who is cycling the Oodnadatta Track. Marjan now reckons it is unlikely we will die as James will pass us if we break down. He was a really interesting guy.

Then walked to the edge of town to see the desert colours. The sun had set a while ago but the sky was a palette of warm tones. I did not have a camera so you will need to imagine it, as I was too busy living it to go back and get a recording device.

Anyway back to our cabin, where Marjan is expecting to spot some stars. Onwards, ever onwards.

The Roads are Closed

It has basically rained every day we have been here. The first afternoon was dry but it rained overnight. Since then we have got wet on both morning and afternoon outings.

We checked today and the gorge roads are apparently closed. OK, so we decide to make the most of it and head off along the made road. There is a shortish walk(2h..though it turns our closer to 1.25h) to some aboriginal art. A nice easy walk along lovely country and at one point along a lovely creek. Of course it starts to drizzle and we again get wet. The rock paintings are nice enough. It is sad they have to be caged to protect them from civilized man and woman. If I could find Lisa H. I would give her a piece of local sandstone........

We keep going along the road, stopping off at a few lookout points. All very pretty. When we get to the second Gorge Road it is apparently open, so in we go. This is interesting as it covers the full 150million years of Flinders Ranges geological make up from one end to the other. Spotted some evidence of the oldest living thing on rock. Kinda geeky, but truly us. We did a few creek crossings and then got to a place called the Slippery Dip on Brachina Creek. I reckon the Subie could have done it, but Marjan was quite nervous so we backed out. I was a little nervous but gung ho to try. However, the secret to our travelling arrangement is compromise and after the canyon incident we decided to compromise on the side of safety.

Back onto the main road, we headed up to Blinman. Used to be a mining town and they have a pub that served us a decent burger. Feeling better we asked about the roads. The local publican, a youngish guy who could not sit still, complained about how decisions were made from Adelaide and so 'they knew nothing John Snow!'. He was nice enough to check the Internet tell us that the road to Parachilna was open to the half way and open for 4WD drive for the second half.

We decided to risk it......different decision after being fed.....

Well potentially the highlight of the trip thus far was opened up before us. The Gorge was truly lovely with wonderful rock formations a terrific rocky stream flowing between high walls and stately gums. Marjan even took some of the creek crossings on, though she did baulk at one that seemed wider, deeper and faster moving than the others. Suffice to say, we made it through..........to an amazingly flat featureless plain. Pretty much nothing else from here to Perth apart from Lake Torrens, I suppose.

Drove back to Hawker where we confirmed that the roads around Marree are still closed. The road TO Marree has been opened so we have decided to risk the trip there and see what happens.

Bye for now.

Escape From Sacred Canyon

So we woke after a solid night sleep feeling tired after our exertions of yesterday. However we were determined to persevere, so off we set for Wilpena.

Wilpena is the National Park headquarters and the start of a number of walks. We chose the Wangara Lookout walk, a 7.8k 3.5 hour return. We started along the Wilpena Creek. Like all creeks around here it was full of red gums. Gorgeous!!. There was actual water in the creek and the birds were singing in the cool. Probably not normal Flinder's Ranges but really pleasant and pretty.

The only problem we encountered was that about 2 k in where the 'road' ended and the smaller path began, we realised we could have caught the bus to the spot like other tired oldies. Darn it, we need to talk to rangers more. The walk continued along the creek and eventually began to broaden out when we got into the pound. At an old stone hut (Hill's homestead) we headed up the hill for a view of the pound. Yep, very pretty, and again probably not what most see as it was very green from the rain and still overcast. Much closer than yesterday and you can see why people thought it would make good agricultural country, especially in the rain.

Reading the Hill's story though made you wonder at the toughness of the people who settled here.

We walked into the pound a little further, before heading back.

When we set up for lunch by the creek, the rain started, so we lunched in the lee of the visitor information centre. Not bad really and at least we stayed dry. We took the opportunity to message loved ones as there was mobile coverage. Hi loved ones!

Because of the rain a lot of roads were closed, including the road we had been on yesterday afternoon. So, of the options available we decided that Sacred Canyon was a good start. The short 13k dirt road seemed in pretty good nick as we went in. A few muddy spots but nothing out of the ordinary. It was, however, evident how fragile this country is. You could see how any rain seemed to just carve itself a waterway through the fragile soil. There were areas carpeted with wildflowers and areas where it was obvious we should have been here last week for the spectacular.

Anyway, got to the canyon ad walked in along the creek bed. As we got in a bit higher, we dodged the odd bit of still water to keep dry. Lovely location and mildly interesting rock carvings.

We were enjoying a chat with another couple when the rain started. Ha! Ha! we all thought and said. It got heavier and heavier and the lightning started. Soon the lightning was almost directly overhead and we started to get hail. At some point I felt that sheltering in a narrow canyon in the rain was not a long term proposition, so we scrambled back down the creek. We got absolutely soaked and getting back across the creek at the car park was a mid-shin wade by this time as the water was rising fast. The worst part was that Marjan made me go back and check on an older couple in case they were having trouble.

Soaked to the skin we drove back and had to wade at least 12 'creeks'. Most very small dips in the ground, but at least three were sizeable watercourses by the time we got to them. Marjan was a little tense. So tense she even praised my creek crossing abilities.

Anyway, we survived, the Subie did well and we ended up having a glass of wine with the older couple. They are staying in the plusher accommodation. Views to die for. Marjan's face was a picture to behold when Margaret told her that they had spotted 2 trees hit by lightening strikes on their way back. So many ways we could have died! But we survived to have a wine and a view to die for.

We will need to keep an eye on the web sites. The Oodnadataa trail is closed and we do not know what will happen. We may have to replan that part of the trip. At the moment we cannot even get to Marree to start the Ooodnadatta leg of the journey. Oh the joys of the weather.

Another day another adventure!

There and Back Again

So we had some rain overnight and woke to an odd shower and cloudy skies. We naturally decided to take the longest walk on offer here. Here of course is Rawnsley Park. This is a working sheep station that does a side trade in tourism. Given it is right in the edge of the Wilpena Range I can understand their reasoning. Anyway their big signature walk is a 12k hike up the mountains to Rawnsley Bluff. Marjan had said that she wanted to start gently so this seemed the perfect hike. So after a breakfast of toast and jam (peach and ginger) from the Barossa off we set.

We were alone at the walk car park and set off with only the odd grumble from Marjan about her knees. Yes they are a bit nobbly I said, which got me sheoak nut to the nut. The walk wound around a dry country creek, that is a rocky depression in the ground, and eventually rose through some sandy hills covered in cypress pine. Slowly we elevated through lovely pink sandstone and some wildflowers. The walk was relatively mild for the first 2.5k. It then started to climb more precipitously over rocks and became quite a scramble for us both. Marjan reminded me of our first hike and how she hated me from that moment (The saddle to Wine Glass Bay in Tasmania). She did not point out that we could die on some of the cliffs but the teeth were clenched so tight I could see the throat muscles bunching up. Eventually we got above the rocky section and the walking again became relatively benign. We were walking on a saddle between two peaks on a slow decline into Wilpena Pound. We were heading for a view of Wilpena Pound rather than to the top of the bluff. A total saving of 400 yards. There were a number of wildflowers up here as well. The most striking was a callistemon. They seemed to like this sandy ridge.

Anyway after a final short rock scramble we were on a rock overlooking Wilpena Pound. As Marjan said, she hates me for making her do these walks, but she loves the places we go!

It was overcast so the views were not as spectacular as they could have been. Anyway we replenished our energy with some fruit and nuts.....and water thanks to the very handy 3 litre bladder.....thanks Katherine and Anna.

Time to head back down. The vertical rock scramble was worse on the way down. We had to concentrate to make sure we did not fall. Suffice to say I did not even bother to get the camera out for a coloured dragon (a type of lizard). We did finally make it, even though Marjan was sure the car was not getting any closer. In the final little stretch it began to rain. But we had had a terrific walk over the five hours so we were happy. W treated ourselves (an ice cream for Marjan, a pie for Raf), had some lunch and a rest......

…......and were off for a dive in the afternoon. We kept it pretty simple, a couple of look outs, some views of the ranges and a scenic drive through some open country that was teeming with emus, kangaroos, black kites and wedge tailed eagles. I suspect the last two were there because of the huge number of rabbits. Anyway some beautiful countryside that we will examine in more detail over the coming days.

We got back to our digs and enjoyed a hot shower and a glass of Kilikanoon Riesling. When we tasted it, on cue we both said Mmmmmmmmm with a smile on our faces. Not a bad drop.

RM Williams Way

We woke to early morning fog. Had breakfast, packed and headed off. We were going into the outback now. But first another look at the Lutheran church.

We drove via Clare valley. The way to Clare was almost all cropping country after the first few kilometres of vineyards. The wheat fields seemed to stretch on forever. When we got to Clare the country closed in a little, with a narrower valley and lots of little side roads. Nowhere near as Germanically ordered. Also fewer churches and only one Lutheran one. Slackers! Actually there seems to be considerably less money here than in the Barossa. Probably it is that little bit further from Adelaide. The towns are still pretty with lots of lovely stone houses, but few are as well maintained as in the Barossa.

We actually tried to go to a winery in Clare. We had had a Kilikanook wine before and liked it. However they did not open tastings till 11 and we got there at 10:30. Oh well. We visited the supermarket to stock up on food, had a coffee and cake and bought the wine at the bottle shop.

If we thought there was a lot of wheat before Clare, the RM Williams Way after Clare opened up our eyes to the real meaning of wheat belt. It just went on and on and on. Yes the road is called the RM Williams way, and yes we discussed purchasing cowboy hats, boots and a boot scooting licence. I can picture it. Jamestown was the place....RM Williams birthplace........but we dodged the C&W bullet and drove on by.

We made it to Ororroo for lunch. Picnicked in the Lions Park. A little picnic ground by the river and a giant River Red gum. Went for a short stroll to some Aboriginal carvings......a little underwhelming but a nice thing to do after lunch.

After Ororroo the land got poorer and drier, lots of saltbush and scrubby plants, also lots of sandy soil. We were actually in the southern Flinders foot hills, so a constantly changing landscape. Lots of ruins of old farm houses. Not sure where the Goyder line is precisely but around here would seem to be it. We did actually go past the Goyder highway.

The towns seemed to get poorer and scrappier as we headed up, and the birds which had seemed to disappear suddenly appeared again. In particular Black Kites which seemed to be everywhere. Four on the road at one point, and another which zigged when it should have zagged and almost became a hood ornament. Marjan had a little heart attack.

Eventually we started to see higher hills as we approached Hawker. Very sleepy town, but at least the petrol station had an ice cream. Though still the country was beautiful with the hills on either side and scrubby land all around. It was not far before we got to Rawnsley Park Station. This is just outside the National Park but with a great view of the ranges surrounding Wilpena Pound.

We had time for a walk up to the Alison saddle behind our cabins for a wonderful view of the ranges and a look at some lovely wildflowers. We think we are going to love the Flinder's Ranges.

Mengler Hill

Well we again woke to thunderstorm. Not sure if they bounced back from Melbourne, but they were here with just a touch of rain. Still we had a prepared breakfast to come so we just snuggled back under the covers. Even then we got to breakfast early.........like fools we had forgotten that Adelaide is half hour behind........most embarrassing......our host shooed us away.

When we finally came back we again realised that having breakfast made for you is a luxury you should grant yourself on occasion. The stewed pear was a treat.

So fed and rested we set off to explore the Barrossa. We started with a climb into the hills to the west and checked out the whole valley.

Then onto the main road.....winery after winery............sped by, that is not what we wanted. We checked out another spot in the hills to the west of Lyndoch. Real Heysen country with lovely trees and rocky hills. At the lookout was a man who was either waiting for a drug deal or who had had a really bad morning. So we left and visited the lavender farm. No flowers, should have been here last week!

Got a great story about a local community of Germans who settled in the local valley as it was very fertile. They were warned by the local aborigines that the valley was prone to flood. Knowing better they hunkered down. There are a couple of old houses and a memorial to them from the flood seven years later.

One of the things you get when you travel around is the dichotomy between the European and mainly germanic order of the agriculture and the romantic wildness of the surrounds as captured by Heysen. Still those Lutherans persisted, and built churches every couple of miles.

 We drove around a heritage route taking in Bethany, the Mengler family cemetery, Mengler Hill, Angaston, Penrice, Light Pass, Stone Well, Seppeltfield, Greenock,  Noorioopta and Tanunda.

The Mengler family cemetery was a hoot, Marjan was making up stories about one of the Menglers who was in as close to a pauper's grave as could be. She reckons he was cruel to Maria his wife who has a much nicer grave. He must have been a bastard.

Anyway, up Mengler hill t o the sculpture Park and the wonderful views of the valley.

Angaston was a highlight. Gorgeous little town. It also had a dairy, so we bought some cheese, locally made mettwurst, bread and picnicked in the park with a bunch of young German tourists.

We enjoyed a visit to Luhr's Cottage, an 1840's cottage saved as a museum. It was also the local schoolhouse and some of the school books are a hoot. I love the German/English divide as they taught the local Lutherans. Yes Lutherans, the school is spitting distance to two Lutheran churches.
We did not bother to stop for the Seppelt family mausoleum, though there was ample parking for the curious. It looked like too big a hike up the hill. The whole of the way from the main road to the Seppelt winery is adorned by palm trees. Looks really odd. Must look up the Seppelts they sound really strange.

So we got a bit tired and headed back for a nanna nap before our afternoon tea of scones and cream. A walk and drive for some more scenery preceded a BBQ dinner, held around the place of yesterday's sunset picture.

A day in the Barrossa and not one winery!

We did however have a local Chenin Blanc. Not bad.