Cubism and cheese

So the women wanted to shop. I had two choices, suffer in silence, as if, or do something better. So off to the Reina Sofia for another dose of art. The Reina Sofia used to be a hospital and my aunt was treated there many years ago. Apart from that it houses Picasso's Guernica so it was worth a visit.

I wandered off on foot, and ended up going by Anton Martin, where they have a statue to some lawyers who were killed in 1977 as part of the trouble leading to the most recent version of Spanish democracy. The reason I mention it is that in 1977 I was in Spain, Tomas and I were right there where they were killed a couple of hours before hand. The Madrid time has been a bit like that, lots of memories and links for me.

It was a cold Madrid morning and not too many people shared my idea, so the entry was simpler than El Prado. I wanted to catch Guernica before the crowds so headed up to the second floor. It is as awesome as I remember and though the curating is not as spectacular as last time it is still very well done with all the supporting sketches showing how this was an intellectual process.

Having got the big one done without crowds, I then followed the correct path around the second floor. Apart from the key room, photos are allowed, so I took one or two. Essentially the second floor shows the development of modernist movements in European art leading to surrealism and cubism. I really liked some of the precursor stuff. This Adam and Eve was quite striking.

When I made it back to Civil War stuff I was blown away by two paintings. Evacuacion by Bardasano and Madrid 1937 by Ferrer. These two together brought back Dad's stories of being forced out of their houses when Franco started his push for Madrid from La Casa Campo across the Manzanares. That just happened to be where they lived and they lugged mattresses and other goodies up the hill to the sound of gun and artillery fire. Dad would have been eight. I actually had to go out and sit down outside for a while. 

The second floor was amazing really and I covered it reasonably well.

 I did a bit of general wandering around the balconies and stairwells trying to create my own art. 

Then I went up to the fourth to the more recent stuff. Mostly it left me cold, but thee were some good photo exhibitions. A British photographer was featured and his photos of the 80's miners strike were awesome.

After three and a half hours I had not nearly finished, but again art fatigue set in. I headed off to our lunch date.

Katherine had bought Marjan a lunch at a Cheese Bar. She and Morgan had loved it, being cheese fanatics, and recommended it to us. We had been looking forward to it. The menu was mind blowing. One for food, one for cheese and one for wine. Each had many pages. Apparently they have over 150 cheeses on the menu. We felt overwhelmed and just ordered the cheese platter of the day for starters and a normal dish, though all dishes include cheese, to follow.

Wow. It was beautiful cheese, beautifully presented and the waiter brought us appropriate wines to go with it. Marjan thinks she may have had the best vegetarian meal ever. I had some nice lamb medallions and Anna had some vegetables......with cheese.

To follow; cheese cakes, one type each for Marjan and I and a cheesy mousse thing for Anna. A terrific meal in lovely atmosphere. Thank you Katherine. It was a real treat.

We came back to the flat to help Anna book some bits of travel and I am now heading out for some calamares and a beer. Marjan cannot face any more food, whereas I seem to have worked up an appetite. Must be the crisp, almost winter air.

Back on the road tomorrow. It will be good bye to Madrid. I think it would have been much more enjoyable if we had not had to face the filth of the streets. The strike is being settled as we speak but the damage done to the city's reputation with tourists will last a long time.