Galicia

We drove a lot today. We left Salamanca after breakfast at 9:30 and,did not get to our destination till about 3:30. At least it was an interesting drive. Shortly out of Salamanca we hit fog and that was our companion for the first fourty five minutes or so. We were relying on the motorway not dropping off a cliff because visibility was poor. We put on the radio and on came Ghostbusters, that was enough to clear the fog. "Who you gonna call?"

Once we cleared the fog we were driving in perfect sunshine, through the productive undulating plains of the upper meseta. Eventually we approached higher ground and yes it had snow. As we drove through the pass over the mountains the divide Castilla Leon from Galicia we had snow on either side of us. It was not heavy but it made us happy about giving the Picos de Europa a miss in a few days. If we had snow here, it would be quite heavy there. When we got to the other side of the mountains, the snow was even heavier behind us.

We went through a couple of complete changes in landscape, and one in language, they speak Gallego here. Eventually we ended up in the hills, if not mountains of Galicia. Very pretty apart from the logged areas of hillside. Very different to anything we had seen thus far. James decided to take us through the city of Ourense, which we had not expected. It is a very steep and hilly place and James had us crossing the river twice. Once probably to show us the Roman bridge...yes another one. A miscounted exit at a roundabout.....yes again, meant we were taking side street to get back on route. Interesting side streets. Though Ourense is a sizeable place we ended up driving up single lane streets that seemed to have a 10% grade. Marjan was cursing James.....very inventively and amusingly I must say.

Anyway eventually we got to the Ribeira Sacra as this area is called. The Sacred Shore, after the number of monasteries set up along the three rivers in the 12th and 13th centuries. We are not planning on visiting any of those monasteries. We are planning on tasting some Ribeira Sacra wine though and walking in between drinks. Truly lovely countryside now. High plains with amazing views and dry stone walls separating fields. Valleys with autumn colours and deep shade.

We saw a man walking his bull and waiting to cross the road. I did not know the proper etiquette so merely waved. In a one donkey town we ran into a traffic light. It was there so you did not crash into oncoming traffic in the one lane lane through the middle of town. The roads kept getting narrower and steeper. Marjan was telling me not to look, which made driving particularly difficult. Eventually we ran out of road and we were there. Rabacallos, is not a location known to James. I had had to bring up a map and just point at a spot to get him to get us here, but get us here he did. Gorgeous view out of the window and from the owners place.

The young woman in charge has a significant accent, Gallego, and I had to concentrate to follow her properly. We stowed our gear and went for a bit of a walk to stretch the legs after the drive. Glorious country. It is close to rainforest. Apparently this valley gets about 700mm. The Miño gets about 900mm. We have a lovely babbling brook about 100 metres away.

If you see a gap in the foliage in the hills in the shots, chances are it is a vineyard. 

We enjoyed walking under hazels, pretty trees that had strewn the paths with leaves and nuts and the prickly covering on the nuts. Broke one open to see if it tasted good, but it was fermenting, and I'll save the alcohol consumption for the Riberira Sacra Albariño we are planning to have with dinner. Yes we arranged an early dinner, they should be able to let us sit around eightish.

Apparently there is a bit of watersport around here in summer, but we will pass on that. Though it is warmer than Salamanca, and quite sunny, there was still a bit of nip in the air, and Marjan is mindful that the mountains with snow on them are just around the corner. So maybe a walk up out of the canyon, Cañon De Sil, and visit the town at the top for lunch. Should be a good days walk at a slow pace.