Déjà Vu

So apparently the Mezquita is free if you go before 9:30. A group of hardy souls with coats were therefore huddled in the morning chill, mild by Salamanca standards, at 8:30 waiting for the gates to open. I have to say it was worth delaying breakfast to get there early, rather than fighting groups of school kids and roving packs of organised tour people, we had a relatively quiet time to soak the place up as the size of the space meant we each had room to pause and stare. I had of course been here before and fallen in love with the place. I was dreading having a come down. I was pleased that on second viewing I was just as moved by it as the first time. I was also just as outraged at the desecration of the original by the later cathedral as I was the first time. 

Of course, the desecration is multilayered. The Mezquita was build over the remains of a visigothic church that occupied the site, parts of which are being excavated under the floor of the current building. Previous to that there had been a Roman temple on the site and parts of the Roman temple were used to build the Mezquita. Also it was extended several times and bits added and modified. The church though seems out of place and breaks the beautiful geometry of the columns and arches. It would have been a sight to see around 1100.

Having had my whinge, it is still glorious and I am grateful to have had another opportunity to visit. Excuse the archeological pit on the shot of the mihrab.

I was on a roll, apparently the Alcazar is also free to early starters. I think I was about the last to make the 10am cut-off. The Alcazar De Los Reyes Catolicos to give it it's full tile is an OK building with some awesome gardens. I was not expecting much as they would look their best in spring. However with the  lovely winter sun and the citrus in fruit it was an impressive sight. It was also quiet, except for the gardeners at their work. The mood, of quiet contemplation in the Mezquita was supported by the gentle stroll through the water gardens at the Alcazar. What a morning!

It was now approaching midday and Anna was finally roused, dressed, breakfasted and emailed for the day. So we met and went to......the Mezquita and the Alcazar. Yep twice in one day. At least the first time was free. I loved Anna's reaction to both. The beam hardly left her face and cheered me up immensely. Both because we were sharing the moment of joy that beauty can bring, and because it meant she was on the road to recovery. 

I have no photos to bring from the PM part of the day as my camera battery, and spare, ran out of juice, and I did not bring the charger. Bugger this travelling light.

We of course had lunch in there somewhere(refer to blog title). Today we did it lightly as a take away bocadillo by the fountain in the patio at the Mezquita. The sun was warm, the water was tinkling and we did not mind that it was merely a bread roll.

The rest of the afternoon was really an aimless wander. A lovely patio in the Juderia here, a Roman ruin there, a hot chocolate in the sun whilst watching shoppers wandering by near the centre of town, a beer and tapas in a dilapidated square whilst listening to a violin busker. You know the sort of stuff, it's life when you have time to live it. No list to tick off, just enjoying being there, enjoying the sun on our backs and mostly enjoying each other.

Anna went back to her room for a quick travel plan discussion with her cousin, and I had a quick nap. We followed it with an early dinner at a small place. Nice steak, best I have had coz I don't like the thin steaks they normally do in Spain, but I do yearn for one occasionally, and this was tasty and tender.

For those wondering about the historical context of the two major parts of this entry...do your own research! today I was just in a soul filling rather than a fact finding mood. 

Bye for now.